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Common FAQs regarding Permanent Docks
Do I really need a permit for a permanent dock in Michigan?
Yes. Unlike seasonal “roll-out” docks, permanent piers and docks require a permit from the Michigan Department of Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy (EGLE). Because these structures impact the lakebed, they fall under Part 301 of the Inland Lakes and Streams Act. We handle the entire application and joint-permit process to ensure your project stays compliant with state and local regulations.
How do permanent docks survive Michigan winters and ice?
We use a combination of heavy-duty steel, wood or composite pilings which are drivien deep into the lakebed (often 10–15 feet or more) to reach stable soil, to ensure the dock stays anchored against “ice jacking.” For areas with high ice movement, we can also install bubbler systems or de-icers that circulate warmer water to prevent thick ice from forming directly against the structure.
What is the typical lifespan of a permanent pier in West Michigan?
A professionally constructed steel piling dock or a high-grade timber pier can last 25 to 30+ years. We use heavy steel or marine grade pressure-treated lumber designed specifically for freshwater submersion. Unlike aluminum seasonal docks that can warp or blow away in a Lake Michigan storm, a permanent pier is built to be a generational asset.
Can you install a permanent dock on Lake Michigan's "Big Water"?
Lake Michigan’s high wave energy and shifting sands make construction on the big lake more complex, often requiring specialized designs to survive these high-energy shorelines. This often involves heavier steel H-pilings and integrated seawall or riprap protection to prevent erosion around the dock’s base. We will conduct a site evaluation to determine if a fixed pier or a heavy-duty suspension dock is best for your specific stretch of coast and can put you in touch with contractors we know that specialize in these high energy locations. We typically keep our service areas to the inland lakes and rivers of West Michigan.
How much does a permanent dock cost compared to a seasonal one?
The initial investment for a permanent dock is higher due to the heavy machinery, piling materials, and permitting involved. The costs will also vary depending on how deep the water is and what type of pilings you choose. However, when you factor in the annual costs of hiring a crew to install and remove a seasonal dock each and every year, a permanent pier often pays for itself within 7–10 years while significantly increasing your property’s market value.
Common FAQs regarding Seawall Construction
Can I repair my existing seawall instead of replacing it?
If your wall is bowing or “kicking out” at the bottom, it usually indicates a failure of the tie-back system or toe-stability. We offer seawall anchoring and tieback replacement , but if the material (timber or thin steel) is compromised, a new vinyl or Truline seawall system is often the more cost-effective long-term solution.
How long does the installation take?
Most residential seawall projects take between 2 to 3 weeks once we are on-site. However, the EGLE permitting process can take 60–90 days, so we recommend planning your project well in advance of your expected installation date.
Will a seawall stop my yard from being soggy?
A seawall stops lateral erosion, but for a soggy yard, we recommend installing an integrated drainage system (French drains) behind the new wall. This allows groundwater to escape into the lake without taking your topsoil with it.
What is the typical lifespan of a seawall?
Longevity depends on the material and the environmental energy of the site:
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Steel: 30–50+ years (can be prone to corrosion at the water line over time).
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Vinyl: 50+ years (impervious to rust and rot, but best for low-to-medium ice pressure).
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Truline (Hybrid): 75+ years (concrete-filled vinyl provides the longest durability).
Which material is best for my property?
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Steel is ideal for “Big Water” (Lake Michigan) due to its extreme strength against heavy ice and wave action.
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Vinyl is a popular, cost-effective choice for inland lakes and canals where aesthetics and corrosion resistance are priorities.
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Truline is recommended for high-load areas or homeowners who want a “forever” wall with the strength of concrete and the maintenance-free finish of vinyl.
What are "tie-backs" and why are they necessary?
A seawall isn’t just a fence; it’s a retaining system holding back thousands of pounds of soil pressure. Tie-backs are steel rods that connect the wall to “deadman” anchors buried 6–10 feet back into your yard. Without a properly engineered anchoring system, the wall will eventually bow or lean toward the water.
What is "toe stone" or riprap, and do I need it?
EGLE requires toe stone (large rocks placed at the base of the wall) for new permits. This riprap protects the base of your wall from “scouring” (where waves wash away the sand at the bottom) and provides a better habitat for fish and aquatic life.
Can a new seawall be built in front of an old one?
EGLE generally prefers that old, failing seawalls be removed. However, they may allow a new wall to be built no more than 1 foot lakeward of an existing one if removal would cause significant bank instability. This is often referred to as a “replacement in-place.”
How deep do the pilings need to be driven?
A standard rule of thumb when installing seawall pilings is that half of the piling should be below the lake bottom, with half exposed above. For example, a 4-foot wall typically requires at least 8-foot pilings to reach stable soil and prevent “kick-outs” at the base. With that said, for shorter seawall under three feet tall, we will still drive the sheets a minimum of three feet deep to prevent muskrats from being able to dig underneath the new wall.